Izmir ( Smyrna )

Izmir is the third largest city in Turkey with a population of around 3.7 million, the second biggest port after Istanbul, and a very good transport hub. It is a rapidly growing city on the Central Aegean coast of Turkey.

On a wide bay under a range of high hills halfway down Turkey’s west coast is a big city with a long history. Izmir is one of the fastest-growing cruise-ship ports of call on the Aegean and an excellent base for trips to nearby Ephesus and Pergamon.

Once the ancient city of Smyrna, Izmir is now a modern, developed, and busy commercial center, set around a huge bay and surrounded by mountains. The broad boulevards, glass-fronted buildings and modern shopping centers are dotted with traditional red-tiled roofs, the 18th century market, and old mosques and churches, although the city has an atmosphere more of Mediterranean Europe than traditional Turkey.

History

The history of Izmir stretches back to around 3000 BC when the Trojans founded the city in Tepekule in the northern suburb of Bayrakli. This was the birthplace of Homer, who was thought to have lived here around the 8th century BC. The Aeolians, the first Greek settlers, were eventually taken over by their Greek rivals the Ionians. The Ionians were followed by the Lydians who destroyed the city around 600BC before a brief recovery following Alexander the Great arrival in 334 BC.

After his death, Alexander’s generals followed his wishes and re-established Smyrna on Mount Pagos in Kadifekale, and the city then prospered under the Romans. It was destroyed by an earthquake in 178 AD but later reconstructed and became a major commercial port during the Byzantine Empire. After the Byzantines, the city had a turbulent time under the Arabs, Seljuks, Crusaders and Mongols, until Mehmet I incorporated it into the Ottoman Empire in 1415. Under Suleyman the Magnificent, Smyrna became a thriving and sophisticated city and a huge trading center, despite its frequent earthquakes. It was a cosmopolitan city , with a Greek Orthodox majority along with Armenians, Jews and Muslims. Numerous languages could be heard in the streets, spoken by locals and visiting traders.

Following World War I and the defeat of the Ottoman Empire, and on the basis of the majority Greek population in the area, Greece was granted a mandate over Izmir from the Allies. Athens took control over the whole of the Aegean region.

Rising tensions led the outbreak of war as the Greeks purshed further into the heart of Anatolia in an attempt to unite the Greek communities of Asia Minor. Led by Kemal Ataturk the Turkish army launched a counter-attack and seized the city. Soon thereafter 70% of the city burned to the ground by the Turkish forces. The ‘Great Fire’ ended multinational authority of the city and the Greek and Armenian populations were expelled.

Ataturk formally took Izmir on 9 September 1922, which is celebrated as the day of the city’s liberation.

Climate

When you arrive in Izmir, you will be greeted by a very clean atmosphere, something that you will more fully appreciate after you have breathed in the fresh air.Izmir is located in one of the world’slargest oxygen zones. If you visit Izmir during the summer, which runs from March until October, hot and sunny days await you; however, if you visit between November and March, don’t be surpised to find cool, rainy days that provide mild and beautiful winter weather. Izmir’s climate is such that even during the winter there is no drasticchange in temperature. The Aegean coast enjoys a unique, cool wind during the summer months that tempers the high temperatures, acting as a natural air-conditioner that keeps you feeling cool and fresh all day long.

Temperature can drop down to freezing point (0°C/32°F) in mostly windy and rainy winters, however snowfall is some sort of curiousness in these latitudes, which happens once or at most twice a decade, if at all.

Things to do in Izmir

As the third largest city in Turkey, Izmir is a bustling center of activity with plenty going on to entertain any traveler. Most people head to Izmir for the luxury of grand hotels on the coast while being able to easily travel to surrounding ancient city ruins, but if you’re looking for Izmir “must do’s,” there are definitely a few places you should see.

• Book a guide
  

Most people who visit Izmir by cruise ship are whisked off to the big attractions by coach, at £40 a head or more. We recommend taking a personal guide instead. If you are with three or more people, you save serious money.

Last call in the city must be the Ansansor quarter for a trip in the antique, recently renovated and free elevator, enclosed in a tower made of bricks. It zings locals up  from the cobbled, sea-level street to the clifftop neighbourhoods. Stop at the terrace cafe for great views over central Izmir.

• Square deal

The spacious Konak Square, with a 1901 clock tower as its central feature, is the spiritual heart of the city and, arguably, of modern Turkey, the fight for independence after partition in the wake of the First World War began here.

From the square, it’s a short stroll to the cafe-lined seaside promenade, the Kordon, and the customs house on Konak Pier built by Gustave Eiffel and restored as a chic shopping centre. We recommend the short ferry  trip across the bay from Pasaport for some fresh sea air and good views back over Izmir.

• Tours to Ephesus

Ephesus is a fabulous place, with the largest collection of Roman ruins in the eastern Mediterranean. It is the closest thing to Pompeii as a place of buried marvels still to be excavated only an estimated 15 to 20 per cent has been unearthed.

But it does get extremely busy. Got here at 8.30am opening time in the relative quiet. By 9.30am the place is thronged with people from the cruise ships.  Private Ephesus Tours is money well spent because you would not get this on a crowded tour.

• Retreat to the olive grove

Tours to Ephesus often add the village of Sirince village, about five miles away in hills smothered with olive  groves and vineyards. A number of the mainly 19th Century houses have become boutique hotels.  Local people make wine and olive oil and grow tasty peaches. Enjoy and experience of authentic village life.

• Kemeralti Bazaar

Trying, and coming close to emulating the Grand Bazaar of Istanbul, Kemeralti Bazaar should be on every Izmir visitor’s list. Just as in Istanbul, the place is crowded and packed floor to ceiling with an array of everything you could ever need and more. Once again, the stall holders appreciate a bit of haggling and as long as you offer sensible prices and aren’t rude, you’ll often walk away with a bargain. Make sure you grab a guide to the bazaar as it is easy to get lost in its maze-like interior.

Prices are moderate to low, and you can stop anywhere for a cup of coffee or tea. Be sure to check out the buildings as you go, as they’re also a large part of Izmir’s history.

• Sifali Lux Hamam

You can’t visit Turkey without stopping at a Turkish Bath, and Sifali Lux Hamam is the best to be found in Izmir. Men can enjoy longer opening hours, but during the day women can also frequent the baths (don’t worry, they have separate sections). You can make your way through the different temperature rooms and waters, and include a wash and a massage along the way. The bath house is located just off of Anafartalar Caddesi.

• Archaeology and Ethnography Museums

These museums are both worth a visit and are close enough in location that you can do both in one go. The Archaeology Museum contains jewelry, sculptures, glassware and more from both Greek and Roman times. There are also plenty of artifacts from the nearby ruin of Ephesus. The Ethnography Museum is housed in an old stone building and displays local arts, crafts and customs including pottery making, embroidery and even camel wrestling.

• St. Polycarp Church

This church can be found where Gaziosmanpaþa Boulevard crosses Necatibey Boulevard. The building was built in 1625 in honour of St. Polycarp Church, who was killed in A.D. 155 in Kadifekale at the age of 86 because of his strong beliefs and faith. It is said that they tried to burn him at the stake but the flames wouldn’t touch him so he was stabbed to death. The church is part of the seven churches of the revelation and a lasting symbol of the Christian settlement in Smyrna.

• St. John Dome Cathedral

This church is located on  Şehit Nevres Blvd., which leads from Cumhuriyet Square to the Culture Park Fairground. It is open to visitors daily throughout the year. (Address: Şehit Nevres Blvd. No. 29, Alsancak Telephone: 00-90-232- 484-53-60)

• Santa Maria

This church stands behind St. Polycarp Church on Halit Ziya Blvd. It is open to visitors all year round.
(Address: Halit Ziya Blvd. No. 67 ,Telephone :00-090-232-484-86-32 )

• Notre Dame de St. Rosarei

This church is located on 1481 street and is open all year round.(Address: 1481 Street No. 8, Alsancak
Telephone: 00-90-232- 484-66-66)

• Anglican Churches

St. John the Evangelist Church: This churchis located at the intersection of Talatpaşa Blvd. And Mahmut Esat Bozkurt Avenue. Address: Talatpaşa Blvd., Alsancak Telephone: 00-90-232- 464-57-52)

• Orthodox Churches

Aya Fotini: Built in 1793, the church is only open on important holy days. (Address: 1374 Street No. 24, Alsancak Telephone:00-90-232-421-69-92 ,Shaar Ashamayan Synagogue Address: 1390 Street No. 4, Alsancak)

• Izmir Clock Tower

A favourite with regular travellers to Izmir, the pretty clock tower is set in a picturesque plaza where you can sit and people watch whilst sipping a cooling drink. The area is very photogenic and especially if you cross the plaza to the small domed building opposite the clock tower where the plaza looks out over the sea. There is also a large government building on the plaza which was built to fit in with the ambience of the place. A good venue to relax and watch the world go by.

• The Agora

The Agora, which was eventually a Roman market place, was the largest of its kind in the world and was established in 333 BC by Alexander the Great on the slopes of Mt. Pagos. An earthquake in AD 178 destroyed it but it was rebuilt soon after by Marcus Aurelius. The Agora was originally partially excavated in 1932-41, revealing an open square (140x140m) bordered by porticoes and a huge civic basilica on the north side. Digging started again in 2002 and is still in progress; hundreds of roman graffiti’s have been found in the basement of the Basilica. Inscriptions also indicate the existence of a church. Interestingly, this Roman bazaar is only a stone’s throw away from the Ottoman bazaar.

• Havra Street and the Synagogue

Havra Street gets its name from the many synegogues that line it. It features an interesting structure that bears a resemblance to the Kestane Pazarı in which all varieties of foodstuffs are sold. In the 15th cuntury, at the invitation of the Otoman Empire, Jewish families from Spain migrated to Izmir and made Havra Street and its environs their home. The presence of many mosques in the area side by side with the Ez Hayım, Bet Illel, Shalom, Talmud Tora, Sinyora and Algazi synagogues is prof of the tolerance and brotherhood between the people of both religions in İzmir. (Sinyora Ivaret Address: 927 Sokak No. 7, Mezarlıkbaşı.)

• House Museum of Dario Moreno and the Historical Asansör

The house in which the famous Dario Moreno used to live has been transformed into a museum. The surrounding houses have been restored, and the street has been named Dario Moreno Street. The 40-meter-high historical lift building (Asansor) that stands at the end of this street was built by the Jewish businessman Nesim Levi in 1907 as a means of connecting the Karataş and Halil Rıfat paşa quarters. At the top of this lift building are a restaurant that has a wonderful view of the gulf of İzmir, the Ceneviz Meyhane (Genoese Wine – House) and a café. Asansör is one of İzmir’s most prestigious spots. In the 1930’s a theatre stage, a cinema, café and photography studio were installed in the Asansör building.

• Dantel Sokağı (Lace Street)

Dantel Street is a long, narrow street that opens up to the Kıbrıs Şehitleri main street. It is so narrow that were you to spread out your hon both sides, you would be able to touch the walls of the houses on either side of the street. The street has an interesting architectural style.You will be spoiled by the huge selection from which to choose gifts for your friends in the handicraft and authentic goods shops that can be found on either side of this street.

• Alsancak Train Station

An 1858 structure, the train station is a fine example of English architectural style. The resemblance borne by the district to a typical  English village was further strengthened by the addition of a clock to the station building in 1865. This was the first clock tower in İzmir.

• Culture Park (Kültür Park)

The Culture Park is one of the largest areas of greenery within the city. In addition to the beautiful Mediterrnean palm trees lining the park, there are also various other plants and flowers. Culture Park  is İzmir’s largest recration centre, with its zoo, gardens, funfair, sports facilities, theatres, open-air cinema and more. The İzmir International Fair is held at the Culture Park  Fairground every year between Aug. 26 and Sept. 10. The atmosphere generated by this event is one worth experiencing. The slope of Kadifekale was the site of  Izmir’s second settlement, following the community established at the Tepekule tumulus. Known as the Pagos Hills in those days, Kadifekale served as the city’s centre of defence for hundreds of years. With its huge potential and important position in Anatolia’s commercial activities İzmir, throughout history, has always managed to preserve  as well-organised and developed city plan with its gymnasiums, stadiums, theatres, agora, aqueducts, cisterns and magnificent castle.

• Kadifekale

Kadifekale was built in the 4th century B.C. by Lycimachos, one of Alexander the Great’s generals. Today only the southern wall and five towers remain from the old Kadifekale. The iner castle structure is an example of Middle Ages architecture. The castle was built on a six-square-kilometre area, and its towers measured 20-35 meters in height. The eastren and northern sections of the castle have been totally destroyed, and the interior of the castle is now a forest of pine trees. The remains of a water cistern can also be found with in the castle. The Pagos Hills are one of İzmir’s must-see sites because the panoramic view of the city is well worth experiencing.

•   Izmir City Museum and Archives

The Central Fire Brigade building, one of the representative buildings of Izmir’s history from the republican period. The meseum will contain special documents concerning İzmir and photographs as well as personel information and family histories. Exhibition halls, a library and several rewading rooms will also be avaible for interested parties who wish to cunduct research. The museum will be an important centre of discovery. This historical building was put into service as the Central Fire Brigade in 1932, which operated here non-stop for 70 years until the end of 2001, when it was moved to a new location.

• Atatürk Museum

Located on the 1st Kordon, this two-storey house was the building where Atatürk used tos tay on his visiits to Izmir. The residence was constructed between 1875 and 1880. Atatürk was staying in this house on Sept. 17, 1923, when he participated in the first Izmir Economic Congress. The house was given to him as a gift in 1926. After his death it was opened to the public as a museum in 1941. The house bears traces of both the Otoman and Levantine cultures and attracts attention because of its neo-classic architectural style. Five marble steps lead to the semi-circular entrance of the house from the centre of the house’s front section. From this door you enter into the ground flor salon. The flooring of the house is all wood, and the roof has rich and beautiful desings. On exhibit here are Atatürk’s personal belongings. Address: 1 st Kordon No. 148, Alsancak Telephone : 00-90-232-464-48-05

• Kızlarağası Han

Kızlarağası Han (inn), the historical Elevator, Clock Tower, Old Rıhtım and Fair Izmir Archaeology Museum, Izmir Atatürk Museum, the Kordon, Kemeraltı bazaar and Havra Street These are the places you  should definitely visit before leaving Izmir…

Izmir (Smyrna), Turkey

As with the whole of Turkey, the Izmir province is astoundingly beautiful, and its gorgeous, warm, Mediterranean climate makes visiting the area a complete joy. There’s a lot to do too, the main city of Izmir has some great sights as mighty Mount Yamanlar, the Agora Open Air Museum, the 100 year old Izmir Clock Tower, Asansor, Kadifekale, ancient city of Ephesus, Temple of Artemis and the House of Virgin Mary, Basilica of St. John.

Nature lovers will be at home in the aptly named Izmir Birds Paradise, and the newly opened Sasali Park of Natural Life, which is a grand open air zoo.

Izmir also excels for culture, the International Izmir Festival, is world renowned for its aurally amazing musical performances, with many genres, from classical to modern rock, covered by the line-up.