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Hippodrome, Istanbul

Home → Istanbul, Turkey → Hippodrome, Istanbul

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Tours of Istanbul often begin at the Hippodrome, which is a great place to start learning about Istanbul.

The Byzantine Emperors loved nothing more than an afternoon at the chariot races, and this rectangular arena was their venue of choice. In its heyday, it was decorated by obelisks and statues, some of which remain in place today. Recently re-landscaped, it is one of the city’s most popular meeting places and promenades.

Originally, the arena consisted of two levels of galleries, a central spine, starting boxes and the semicircular southern end known as the Sphendone, parts of which still stand. The level of galleries that once topped this stone structure was damaged during the Fourth Crusade and ended up being totally dismantled in the Ottoman period many of the original columns were used in construction of the Suleymaniye Mosque.

The Hippodrome was the centre of Byzantium’s life for 1000 years and of Ottoman life for another 400 years and has been the scene of countless political dramas. In Byzantine times, the rival chariot teams of ‘Greens’ and ‘Blues‘ had separate sectarian connections. Support for a team was akin to membership of a political party and a team victory had important effects on policy. Occasionally, Greens and Blues joined forces against the emperor, as was the case in 532 BC when a chariot race was disturbed by protests against Justinian’s high tax regime this escalated into the Nika riots (so called after the protesters’ cry of Nika!, or Victory!), which led to tens of thousands of protesters being massacred in the Hippodrome by imperial forces. Not unsurprisingly, chariot races were banned for some time afterwards.

Ottoman sultans also kept an eye on activities in the Hippodrome. If things were going badly in the empire, a surly crowd gathering here could signal the start of a disturbance, then a riot, then a revolution. In 1826, the slaughter of the corrupt janissary corps (the sultan’s personal bodyguards) was carried out here by the reformer Sultan Mahmut II. In 1909 there were riots here that caused the downfall of Abdül Hamit II.

Despite the ever-present threat of the Hippodrome being the scene of their downfall, emperors and sultans sought to outdo one another in beautifying it, adorning the centre with statues from the far reaches of their empire. Unfortunately, many priceless statues carved by ancient masters have disappeared from their original homes here. Chief among the villains responsible for such thefts were the soldiers of the Fourth Crusade, who invaded Constantinople, a Christian ally city, in 1204. After sacking Hagia Sophia, they tore all the plates from the Rough-Stone Obelisk at the Hippodrome’s southern end in the mistaken belief that they were solid gold (in fact, they were gold-covered bronze). The crusaders also stole the famous quadriga, or team of four horses cast in bronze, a copy of which now sits atop the main door of the Basilica di San Marco in Venice (the original is inside the basilica).

Near the northern end of the Hippodrome, the little gazebo with beautiful stonework is known as Kaiser Wilhelm’s Fountain. The German emperor paid a state visit to Sultan Abdül Hamit II in 1901 and presented this fountain to the sultan and his people as a token of friendship. The monograms in the stonework are those of Abdül Hamit II and Wilhelm II, and represent their political union.

The immaculately preserved pink granite Obelisk of Theodosius in the centre was carved in Egypt during the reign of Thutmose III (r 1549–1503 BC) and erected in the Amon-Re temple at Karnak. Theodosius the Great (r 379–95) had it brought from Egypt to Constantinople in AD 390. On the marble billboards below the obelisk, look for the carvings of Theodosius, his wife, sons, state officials and bodyguards watching the chariot-race action from the kathisma (imperial box).

South of the obelisk is a strange column coming up out of a hole in the ground. Known as the Spiral Column, it was once much taller and was topped by three serpents’ heads. Originally cast to commemorate a victory of the Hellenic confederation over the Persians in the battle of Plataea, it stood in front of the Temple of Apollo at Delphi from 478 BC until Constantine the Great had it brought to his new capital city around AD 330. Though badly damaged in Byzantine times, the serpents’ heads survived until the early 18th century. Now all that remains of them is one upper jaw, housed in the Istanbul Archaeology Museum.

Istanbul Travel Guide

  • Bosphorus, Istanbul
  • Church of the Holy Saviour in Chora
  • Dolmabahce Palace, Istanbul
  • Etz Ahayim Synagogue
  • Galata Tower, Istanbul
  • Golden Horn
  • Grand Bazaar, Istanbul
  • Hagia Sophia, Istanbul
  • Hippodrome, Istanbul
  • Istanbul Archaeology Museum
  • Istanbul Jewish Cemetery
  • Neve Shalom Synagogue, Istanbul
  • Spice Bazaar, Istanbul
  • Suleymaniye Mosque Istanbul
  • Topkapi Palace, Istanbul
  • Underground Cistern, Istanbul
  • Zulfaris Synagogue
  • Beylerbeyi Palace
  • Rumelihisari (Fortress)
  • Camlica Hill
  • Bosphorus Bridge
  • Istanbul Mosaic Museum
  • Church of the Holy Apostles
  • Eyup Mosque and Mausoleum
  • Beyazit Camii
  • Fatih Camii
  • Fethiye Camii “Pammakaristos Church”
  • Hagia Eirene
  • Orthodox Patriarchate and Cathedral
  • Sts Sergius and Bacchus
  • Yeni Camii
  • Zeyrek Camii “Church of the Pantocrator”
  • Prince’s Islands
  • Mosque of Rustem Pasha
  • Galata Bridge
  • Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts
  • Miniatürk
  • Istanbul Modern Museum
  • Galata Mevlevihanesi
  • Pierre Loti
  • Istanbul, Turkish Baths
  • Walk through Istiklal Street
  • Tunnel
  • Military Museum
  • Port of Istanbul
  • City Walls of Istanbul
  • Maiden’s Tower
  • Harem
  • Tofre Begadim Synagogue
  • Yıldız Park
  • Bulgarian St. Stephen Church
  • Ahrida (Ohrid) Synagogue, Istanbul
  • Ashkenazi Synagogue, Istanbul
  • Balat, Istanbul
  • Blue Mosque, Istanbul
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Hippodrome, Istanbul, 100% based on 2977 ratings
69 Reviews
  1. Mina P
    2:30 pm on March 24, 2012

    There is a long history linked with this place but we have to arouse our imagination to have a better image of what we see now. The Thutmosis III Obelisk is in very good condition and its base too.

    Reply
  2. Ena-Dior
    11:16 am on March 26, 2012

    There are an Egyptian Obelisk, a stone obelisk and the Serpentine Column which were originally brought by the Byzantine emperors and used for the decoration of the Hippodrome. At the other end of the Hippodrome, the German Fountain still functions today. The imperial lodge was located to the west of the Hippodrome where Ibrahim Pasha Palace stands now.

    Reply
  3. Bangkok.js
    4:25 am on June 2, 2012

    Although the today's square follows the same shape and plan as the antique hippodrome, there is a few elements which survived the time. You will find part of the Sphendone in the south of the square, and the Serpent Column and Thutmose III Obelisk in the middle. It is a must-see if you are history addicted!

    Reply
  4. blue-yurii
    10:25 am on October 7, 2012

    A few obelisks and statues are all that remain. It's kind of hard to miss walking between the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, so you'll see it without even realizing it if your not careful. It's a nice little street with park benches if you are looking for a place to relax for a few minutes.

    Reply
  5. Leanni-bernna
    4:27 am on March 17, 2013

    This area has been redone and very well the pavement's have been replaced so that no falling on loose bricks can cause a facial meeting with pavement. There are great old historical places of religion just feet's away but few seats to think about how wonderful the world could be without GREED!

    Reply
  6. Evelyn.l
    6:51 am on April 14, 2013

    A visit to the old Hippodrome now known I believe as Sultan Ahmet Square, is I believe a must for lovers of ancient history. situated between the aya sofia and the Blue Mosque who's entrance can be found off of it.

    Reply
  7. niki2013
    10:41 am on June 13, 2013

    The square in front of the Blue Mosque is located on the site of the ancient Hippodrome. No effort is needed to read the history of this place before you take a sit in one of the benches around; then you will appreciate it. It was a centre of the civil activities and social life of the old Constantinople.

    Reply
  8. tia-g
    5:57 am on July 2, 2013

    One of the nicest places to visit in Istanbul, esp if you are looking for something hundreds of years old, yet maintained in a very clean, interesting manner. The Hippodrome is the Roman name for this place which was made for horse and chariot racing in Roman times. Classic fountains, gorgeous old trees….

    Reply
  9. Gianna_Brook
    12:52 am on November 16, 2013

    There are two obelisks and the broken Serpent Column in the Hippodrome. The obelisk of Thutmosis III is impressive an appears unweathered after thousands of years.

    Reply
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The big tip is to try and go completely private. Many of the large tour companies offer private tour and they are going to charge a significant amount of money for the tour guide. However, many locations offer self-guided tours and therefore you have the ability to supply your own tour guide. Easily Book your guided private Ephesus tours, to see all the treasures of Ephesus Turkey. It's often said that Turkey has more ancient cities and classical ruins than does Greece. Well, it's true, and the Aegean coast holds a great number of sites, including Ephesus, the grandest and best-preserved of them all.

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