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Hippodrome, Istanbul

Home → Istanbul, Turkey → Hippodrome, Istanbul

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Tours of Istanbul often begin at the Hippodrome, which is a great place to start learning about Istanbul.

The Byzantine Emperors loved nothing more than an afternoon at the chariot races, and this rectangular arena was their venue of choice. In its heyday, it was decorated by obelisks and statues, some of which remain in place today. Recently re-landscaped, it is one of the city’s most popular meeting places and promenades.

Originally, the arena consisted of two levels of galleries, a central spine, starting boxes and the semicircular southern end known as the Sphendone, parts of which still stand. The level of galleries that once topped this stone structure was damaged during the Fourth Crusade and ended up being totally dismantled in the Ottoman period many of the original columns were used in construction of the Suleymaniye Mosque.

The Hippodrome was the centre of Byzantium’s life for 1000 years and of Ottoman life for another 400 years and has been the scene of countless political dramas. In Byzantine times, the rival chariot teams of ‘Greens’ and ‘Blues‘ had separate sectarian connections. Support for a team was akin to membership of a political party and a team victory had important effects on policy. Occasionally, Greens and Blues joined forces against the emperor, as was the case in 532 BC when a chariot race was disturbed by protests against Justinian’s high tax regime this escalated into the Nika riots (so called after the protesters’ cry of Nika!, or Victory!), which led to tens of thousands of protesters being massacred in the Hippodrome by imperial forces. Not unsurprisingly, chariot races were banned for some time afterwards.

Ottoman sultans also kept an eye on activities in the Hippodrome. If things were going badly in the empire, a surly crowd gathering here could signal the start of a disturbance, then a riot, then a revolution. In 1826, the slaughter of the corrupt janissary corps (the sultan’s personal bodyguards) was carried out here by the reformer Sultan Mahmut II. In 1909 there were riots here that caused the downfall of Abdül Hamit II.

Despite the ever-present threat of the Hippodrome being the scene of their downfall, emperors and sultans sought to outdo one another in beautifying it, adorning the centre with statues from the far reaches of their empire. Unfortunately, many priceless statues carved by ancient masters have disappeared from their original homes here. Chief among the villains responsible for such thefts were the soldiers of the Fourth Crusade, who invaded Constantinople, a Christian ally city, in 1204. After sacking Hagia Sophia, they tore all the plates from the Rough-Stone Obelisk at the Hippodrome’s southern end in the mistaken belief that they were solid gold (in fact, they were gold-covered bronze). The crusaders also stole the famous quadriga, or team of four horses cast in bronze, a copy of which now sits atop the main door of the Basilica di San Marco in Venice (the original is inside the basilica).

Near the northern end of the Hippodrome, the little gazebo with beautiful stonework is known as Kaiser Wilhelm’s Fountain. The German emperor paid a state visit to Sultan Abdül Hamit II in 1901 and presented this fountain to the sultan and his people as a token of friendship. The monograms in the stonework are those of Abdül Hamit II and Wilhelm II, and represent their political union.

The immaculately preserved pink granite Obelisk of Theodosius in the centre was carved in Egypt during the reign of Thutmose III (r 1549–1503 BC) and erected in the Amon-Re temple at Karnak. Theodosius the Great (r 379–95) had it brought from Egypt to Constantinople in AD 390. On the marble billboards below the obelisk, look for the carvings of Theodosius, his wife, sons, state officials and bodyguards watching the chariot-race action from the kathisma (imperial box).

South of the obelisk is a strange column coming up out of a hole in the ground. Known as the Spiral Column, it was once much taller and was topped by three serpents’ heads. Originally cast to commemorate a victory of the Hellenic confederation over the Persians in the battle of Plataea, it stood in front of the Temple of Apollo at Delphi from 478 BC until Constantine the Great had it brought to his new capital city around AD 330. Though badly damaged in Byzantine times, the serpents’ heads survived until the early 18th century. Now all that remains of them is one upper jaw, housed in the Istanbul Archaeology Museum.

Istanbul Travel Guide

  • Bosphorus, Istanbul
  • Church of the Holy Saviour in Chora
  • Dolmabahce Palace, Istanbul
  • Etz Ahayim Synagogue
  • Galata Tower, Istanbul
  • Golden Horn
  • Grand Bazaar, Istanbul
  • Hagia Sophia, Istanbul
  • Hippodrome, Istanbul
  • Istanbul Archaeology Museum
  • Istanbul Jewish Cemetery
  • Neve Shalom Synagogue, Istanbul
  • Spice Bazaar, Istanbul
  • Suleymaniye Mosque Istanbul
  • Topkapi Palace, Istanbul
  • Underground Cistern, Istanbul
  • Zulfaris Synagogue
  • Beylerbeyi Palace
  • Rumelihisari (Fortress)
  • Camlica Hill
  • Bosphorus Bridge
  • Istanbul Mosaic Museum
  • Church of the Holy Apostles
  • Eyup Mosque and Mausoleum
  • Beyazit Camii
  • Fatih Camii
  • Fethiye Camii “Pammakaristos Church”
  • Hagia Eirene
  • Orthodox Patriarchate and Cathedral
  • Sts Sergius and Bacchus
  • Yeni Camii
  • Zeyrek Camii “Church of the Pantocrator”
  • Prince’s Islands
  • Mosque of Rustem Pasha
  • Galata Bridge
  • Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts
  • Miniatürk
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  • Galata Mevlevihanesi
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  • Istanbul, Turkish Baths
  • Walk through Istiklal Street
  • Tunnel
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  • Port of Istanbul
  • City Walls of Istanbul
  • Maiden’s Tower
  • Harem
  • Tofre Begadim Synagogue
  • Yıldız Park
  • Bulgarian St. Stephen Church
  • Ahrida (Ohrid) Synagogue, Istanbul
  • Ashkenazi Synagogue, Istanbul
  • Balat, Istanbul
  • Blue Mosque, Istanbul
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Rating: +2977 (from 2977 votes)
Hippodrome, Istanbul, 100% based on 2977 ratings
69 Reviews
  1. Bamboo
    1:46 am on July 10, 2010

    Beautiful open space, close to the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace. You can just imagine what it must have been like so long ago with 100,00 thousand people watching the chariot races.

    Reply
  2. untdrum2010
    1:18 am on August 5, 2010

    The Hippodrome has incredible history, but in its current state, it is nothing more than a nice park. The obelisk and some columns are still there, but that is about it. I would recommend stopping by if you are already in the area to check out the Hagia Sophia Museum or the Blue Mosque.

    Reply
  3. pleroma
    6:10 am on August 7, 2010

    Very little evidence that a hippodrome existed here. The area has been well paved and laid out. Disliked the people trying to flog guide books and touts for business in souvenir carpet shops and city bus tours.

    Reply
  4. KathyLB
    12:47 pm on December 21, 2010

    We visited it with our private tour guide and it was interesting because we had someone to tell us the history. It is right outside the Blue Mosque.

    Reply
  5. Mandy R
    5:55 am on April 3, 2011

    This is the racing track outside of the Blue Mosque used by the old rulers. It is a little hard to imagine because the track itself its covered by buildings so they only thing that is left are the columns but if you listen to a good guide (like we had) you can get a pretty good idea.

    Reply
  6. MerveE
    10:47 pm on May 11, 2011

    Not far from the main attraction, stop by on your way to see the Egyptian columns and may be eat an ice cream while you are at there

    Reply
  7. khalid j
    7:41 am on June 29, 2011

    Visited the area along with a guided tour and felt that while being in Istanbul it rightly appeared logical to make hippodrome as a starting point and thence move onwards. The group of people from various nationalities, the historical background of the area narrated by expert guide and aboveall the practical presence just seemed fantastic.

    Reply
  8. Jandi.marcus
    6:36 pm on August 4, 2011

    Don't waste your time looking for the hippodrome as the only thing you'll see are 2 obelisks marking where it use to stand.

    Reply
  9. CoralReef
    3:17 am on January 10, 2012

    Not much left, but worth seeing if you are aware of some of its history. This is the site where the Byzantine Empress Theodora was a circus performer in her pre-royal life. And the outcome of chariot races in the Hippodrome actually had a significant impact on the politics of the Byzantine empire.

    Reply
  10. Mommadrama
    10:31 am on March 3, 2012

    Should see it – just for the history. Plus it's right next to Blue Mosque. But it's a stone carving – not particularly impressive on it's own.

    Reply
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