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Hippodrome, Istanbul

Home → Istanbul, Turkey → Hippodrome, Istanbul

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Tours of Istanbul often begin at the Hippodrome, which is a great place to start learning about Istanbul.

The Byzantine Emperors loved nothing more than an afternoon at the chariot races, and this rectangular arena was their venue of choice. In its heyday, it was decorated by obelisks and statues, some of which remain in place today. Recently re-landscaped, it is one of the city’s most popular meeting places and promenades.

Originally, the arena consisted of two levels of galleries, a central spine, starting boxes and the semicircular southern end known as the Sphendone, parts of which still stand. The level of galleries that once topped this stone structure was damaged during the Fourth Crusade and ended up being totally dismantled in the Ottoman period many of the original columns were used in construction of the Suleymaniye Mosque.

The Hippodrome was the centre of Byzantium’s life for 1000 years and of Ottoman life for another 400 years and has been the scene of countless political dramas. In Byzantine times, the rival chariot teams of ‘Greens’ and ‘Blues‘ had separate sectarian connections. Support for a team was akin to membership of a political party and a team victory had important effects on policy. Occasionally, Greens and Blues joined forces against the emperor, as was the case in 532 BC when a chariot race was disturbed by protests against Justinian’s high tax regime this escalated into the Nika riots (so called after the protesters’ cry of Nika!, or Victory!), which led to tens of thousands of protesters being massacred in the Hippodrome by imperial forces. Not unsurprisingly, chariot races were banned for some time afterwards.

Ottoman sultans also kept an eye on activities in the Hippodrome. If things were going badly in the empire, a surly crowd gathering here could signal the start of a disturbance, then a riot, then a revolution. In 1826, the slaughter of the corrupt janissary corps (the sultan’s personal bodyguards) was carried out here by the reformer Sultan Mahmut II. In 1909 there were riots here that caused the downfall of Abdül Hamit II.

Despite the ever-present threat of the Hippodrome being the scene of their downfall, emperors and sultans sought to outdo one another in beautifying it, adorning the centre with statues from the far reaches of their empire. Unfortunately, many priceless statues carved by ancient masters have disappeared from their original homes here. Chief among the villains responsible for such thefts were the soldiers of the Fourth Crusade, who invaded Constantinople, a Christian ally city, in 1204. After sacking Hagia Sophia, they tore all the plates from the Rough-Stone Obelisk at the Hippodrome’s southern end in the mistaken belief that they were solid gold (in fact, they were gold-covered bronze). The crusaders also stole the famous quadriga, or team of four horses cast in bronze, a copy of which now sits atop the main door of the Basilica di San Marco in Venice (the original is inside the basilica).

Near the northern end of the Hippodrome, the little gazebo with beautiful stonework is known as Kaiser Wilhelm’s Fountain. The German emperor paid a state visit to Sultan Abdül Hamit II in 1901 and presented this fountain to the sultan and his people as a token of friendship. The monograms in the stonework are those of Abdül Hamit II and Wilhelm II, and represent their political union.

The immaculately preserved pink granite Obelisk of Theodosius in the centre was carved in Egypt during the reign of Thutmose III (r 1549–1503 BC) and erected in the Amon-Re temple at Karnak. Theodosius the Great (r 379–95) had it brought from Egypt to Constantinople in AD 390. On the marble billboards below the obelisk, look for the carvings of Theodosius, his wife, sons, state officials and bodyguards watching the chariot-race action from the kathisma (imperial box).

South of the obelisk is a strange column coming up out of a hole in the ground. Known as the Spiral Column, it was once much taller and was topped by three serpents’ heads. Originally cast to commemorate a victory of the Hellenic confederation over the Persians in the battle of Plataea, it stood in front of the Temple of Apollo at Delphi from 478 BC until Constantine the Great had it brought to his new capital city around AD 330. Though badly damaged in Byzantine times, the serpents’ heads survived until the early 18th century. Now all that remains of them is one upper jaw, housed in the Istanbul Archaeology Museum.

Istanbul Travel Guide

  • Bosphorus, Istanbul
  • Church of the Holy Saviour in Chora
  • Dolmabahce Palace, Istanbul
  • Etz Ahayim Synagogue
  • Galata Tower, Istanbul
  • Golden Horn
  • Grand Bazaar, Istanbul
  • Hagia Sophia, Istanbul
  • Hippodrome, Istanbul
  • Istanbul Archaeology Museum
  • Istanbul Jewish Cemetery
  • Neve Shalom Synagogue, Istanbul
  • Spice Bazaar, Istanbul
  • Suleymaniye Mosque Istanbul
  • Topkapi Palace, Istanbul
  • Underground Cistern, Istanbul
  • Zulfaris Synagogue
  • Beylerbeyi Palace
  • Rumelihisari (Fortress)
  • Camlica Hill
  • Bosphorus Bridge
  • Istanbul Mosaic Museum
  • Church of the Holy Apostles
  • Eyup Mosque and Mausoleum
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  • Prince’s Islands
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  • Tofre Begadim Synagogue
  • Yıldız Park
  • Bulgarian St. Stephen Church
  • Ahrida (Ohrid) Synagogue, Istanbul
  • Ashkenazi Synagogue, Istanbul
  • Balat, Istanbul
  • Blue Mosque, Istanbul
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Hippodrome, Istanbul, 100% based on 2977 ratings
69 Reviews
  1. Meek-mee
    10:47 am on November 7, 2007

    The hippodrome is just a few steps from the Blue Mosque and the Haghia Sophia. The space is especially beautiful when in bloom. And the columns erected at the center of this former horses and chariots race course provide fascinating tales about different periods in Turkey's history.

    Reply
  2. Lee.l
    12:33 am on December 10, 2007

    The Obelisk looked almost new. Craziness. But pretty lit up at night. Lots of tour groups during the day. The Serpentine Column had no snake heads. But interesting when you hear about the history.

    Reply
  3. asavage_uk
    3:48 pm on December 10, 2007

    This is not a bad little spot to have a quick stroll around. The main attractions being the Egyptian Obelisk of Theodorius, Kaiser Wilhelm II Fountain and the Serpents Column. If you are interested in seeing one of the heads of the Serpents column this can be found in the Istanbul Archaeological Museum.

    Reply
  4. george2997
    12:49 pm on December 21, 2007

    The hippodrome is now a road at the back of the Blue Mosque. There is nothing left of the stands that would have been here, but using your imagination you can see where the track may have been.
    The first element of the area is a 'fountain' built to celebrate the visit of Kaizer Wilhelm II. You should notice that…

    Reply
  5. Simon A
    9:55 pm on April 5, 2008

    Nothing much remains of the hippodrome itself – except for the sphendone if you wander down to the south. (This looks like the outside of an amphitheatre in dire need of repair) but use your imagination and think of chariots racing up one side of the hippodrome and down the other.

    Reply
  6. Gracy_Y
    9:08 pm on August 31, 2008

    The Hippodrome, as it is now, isn't so much of a tourist attraction as it is a very nice park with historical columns and fountains. You are going to be right there when you go to see the Blue Mosque anyway, so you might was take it in as you go. It makes a very enjoyable route from the Sultanahmet…

    Reply
  7. Savannah.N
    6:40 pm on September 13, 2008

    A very intense historical tissue awaits you and it is an open space like a square that can be visited for free. The ancient Hippodrome in byzantium times, you will witness how Istanbul has a huge historical past.

    Reply
  8. Fujiko K
    1:05 am on September 28, 2008

    This is an old square where there are a few old relics positions. Earlier it used to be a horse racing site but now no traces of it are to be seen,. There are old obelisks which have brought from Egypt and old buildings of Vazir still maintaining its old architecture but out of bound for tourists.

    Reply
  9. Luis R
    4:41 pm on October 29, 2008

    I had to walk around the park.. I just had to do it. So.. I suggest a stroll around the park after…

    Reply
  10. R.Cruiser
    2:51 am on November 29, 2008

    Our first stop at the Sultanahmad area before visiting the other sites. Seemed like a big gathering place for groups. The amazing Egyptian Obelisk is eye-catching right in the middle of the square.

    Reply
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